I have changed flat tires on my car in the snow, at night, on French auto routes, and in a Spanish vineyard. Mostly they are stories of inconvenience, occasionally complicated by an errant jack or dubious spare. But the flat tire on a jungle mountain road in a rented car in Puerto Rico is a story about Puerto Ricans.
Peter and I were using a road map to take what we thought would be an interesting short cut through the middle of the island to return to San Juan. The map showed a through road and we fearlessly set off. What the map did not show was a short break in the road of about 30 feet. Unfortunately, the missing 30 feet had been a bridge over a ravine at least fifty feet deep. We had no reasonable option but to turn around. We got the flat as we were descending the mountain on a road with no side rails and about two extra inches between the outside tires of the car and a drop that made me sick just to look out the window. Had I been driving, my vertigo would have been a lethal danger. We were stranded on a sharp curve, so if a car were coming down the mountain without slowing down, we were all vulnerable to being pitched over the side. I went ahead to signal any oncoming traffic to slow down, and Peter started to change the tire.
Then three teenage boys came loping down the road, and saw our predicament. Our communications consisted of my rusty and rudimentary high school Spanish and lots of acting out, but our problem was pretty obvious, and they set about changing the tire for us with much greater alacrity than Peter would have managed. When they were finished, they tossed the flat tire into the trunk, slammed the door shut, and bid us adios, refusing any recompense save our heartfelt gracias. We got into the car with a sigh of gratitude and relief, and Peter held out his hand for the car key. “I haven’t got it,” I said. “You do.”
But he didn’t. After a panicky search, we realized they were locked in the trunk which the boys had so helpfully slammed shut. We stood there on the road with this new problem. I suggested I hike down the mountain to the nearest gas station, while Peter stayed on the mountain with the car. Peter didn’t think this was a good idea, but neither of us could think of an alternative, since Peter spoke French but not Spanish. That’s when the octopus fishermen arrived.
They pulled up in their ramshackle car and asked if there was a ”problema.” I eventually managed to convey our situation and asked if they would stop by at the nearest gas station and ask someone to come to help. They consulted together with some gesticulations toward the car and announced that it ”No es necessario” to go for help. They would rescue our keys. They proceeded to pull the back seat out of the car, and revealed a small hole several inches in diameter into the trunk. They could see the keys, but couldn’t reach them. So one of the fishermen got his octopus hook, which as I recall resembled a large cork screw, and drew them out. They too resisted any recompense, and I refrained from hugging them. But as they piled back into their car and banged on the side of the door in farewell to us, I think they knew how grateful we were.
Today we have a contract for emergency road service, and even on a remote mountain road in Puerto Rico, they can be reached by mobile phone. And that’s nice, and it’s responsible, and it’s less scary.
But you know, you miss something that way too. The Automobile Association doesn’t equip their drivers with octopus hooks. Or with that unearned offer of help just because you are another human being on a remote road far from home.